Writer: Anki Parlerby Hjelmqwist
During the second part of the trip around Sicily we sailed among the fantastic volcanic islands in the north of the island – a place where time seemed to slow down and every day offered new wow moments. During ten intense days we managed to experience five of the seven Aeolian Islands, each with its own personality and charm.
Quiet on the island of Lipari
From the island of Vulcano we steered to a quiet anchorage on the island of Lipari, where mirror-like sea, lonely nude baths and turquoise water in small caves created an almost unreal feeling of freedom. The days were filled with salty dips, simple dinghy adventures and unexpected encounters – like when a small fishing boat showed up with fresh catch just in time for dinner.
The car-free island of Panarea
From Lipari the journey continued to the island of Panarea, a small pearl where history was literally underfoot. Hilly walks among fragrant jasmine and other floral displays and remains from the Bronze Age gave the place a magical appearance. The car-free island, where golf carts and three-wheeled mopeds made their way along narrow paths, offered both tranquility and spectacular views of the sea.
Word Stromboli
A few days later we left Panarea in the middle of the night to sail towards the active volcano Stromboli. In the moonlight and mild night heat, we were accompanied by playful dolphins, and in the distance we could feel the glow of the volcano – an unforgettable encounter between the forces of nature and the calm of the sea.
The quiet island of Salina
After that adventure, Salina Island awaited, green and lush, where the pace slowed considerably. A quiet day at anchor, training on board and a glass of white wine at sunset were a perfect contrast to previous intense experiences.
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Back on the mainland: Cefalù
Back on the mainland the journey continued to some of Sicily’s perhaps most beautiful towns. In Cefalù we fell completely in love with the small coastal town with its mighty cliff, golden beaches and impressive cathedral and on the beach in the middle of the city we had a sundowner at sunset when we first arrived. The days of strolling through alleys, ice cream breaks and long dinners gave the place a natural place in the heart.
Metropolitan pulse in Palermo
Our next stop was Palermo, where the heartbeat of the big city met us. The bustling markets, the architecture, the Teatro Massimo opera house and the city’s strong history made for a fascinating mix. There are many impressive buildings here, but most are both worn and dirty, and culture was mixed with food experiences and spontaneous encounters with new friends, adding both fascination and the feeling of being thrown into a mafia movie to the days.
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We visited the No Mafia Museum with free entry, which contains many photographs of the Mafia’s exploits, and we had an interesting tour of the incredible Opera House. It was also exciting to see the professional fishermen deliver the tuna catch of the day directly to the quay, with the tuna weighing approximately 400 kilos.
A spontaneous invitation to a neighboring boat in the harbor provided an extremely nice end to the stay. It turned out that no one spoke English, but joy, curiosity and wine can easily overcome such trifles.
Sailing on…
From Palermo we sailed on to a beautiful bay where we anchored at Cala Muletti, where a deserted pebble beach and steep cliffs really highlighted all the contrasts of the sailing. From volcanoes and historical ruins to city life, parties and quiet anchorage bays. Sicily and its islands had shown themselves at their best and left us with a strong desire for more, and we had not yet completed the circuit of the entire island…
Anki is a freelance writer, author and digital life coach who loves to travel. She has lived in several countries such as Lebanon, Poland, Egypt and Morocco, and later in life became a full-time long-distance sailor (despite her recurring seasickness!), after meeting her husband Janne. With the boat Lazy Frog they sailed from Sweden along the Atlantic coast to the Canary Islands and Madeira and are currently in the Mediterranean Sea, in Sicily. Join her on adventures, both on land and at sea!
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