The tip – Why the gap between the edge and the sole is common – Shoegazing.com

If you have Goodyear welted shoes or other similar construction methods with stitched outsoles, you may still find gaps develop between the welt and the midsole or outsole, especially if it is rubber. Here I explain the reason for this, why you shouldn’t worry too much about it and how to fix it if necessary.

When purchasing well-constructed shoes, such as welded shoes, which actually have functional sole stitching made to secure the outsole, you should also consider the fact that these construction methods are also generally made for the purpose of making the shoes easier to resole. That’s why you can’t just use the strongest glue available, as it can make it difficult to remove the outsole when you need to replace it, even if you use heat or solvents.

That’s why manufacturers and shoemakers opt for a middle ground where you have something that adheres well, but not that well, so to speak. Since you also have the stitching, it’s a sensible balance because even if the sole comes loose at the edge, it will never come off completely. Therefore, it is common to see these gaps between the welt and the sole, especially in the toe area where you apply the most pressure and where water is more likely to attack the leather structure, which in turn affects the adhesion between the layers.

It is also more common with rubber outsoles, as two different materials, such as leather and rubber, are always more difficult to connect than two pieces of the same material, such as a leather welt and a leather outsole. Here, the balance between a strong bond and not making it too difficult to remove for repair is an additional challenge. The above issues are also the reason you often see the rubber top part coming loose from the heel: it must be removable, under a lot of pressure, close to the ground where you have bonded damp, different materials.

The gaps between the edge and the sole can develop quickly or slowly. Often you don’t have to worry too much about it, it’s just visual. However, if it opens a little too much, this can be easily remedied. Take them to a cobbler and you can have it repaired for a very small amount, or buy a good contact cement suitable for this purpose. Some popular ones are Barge All Purpose Cement, Renia Klebfest or Shoe Goo.

Read more about the different glues used in shoe making in this article.