Since then, the so-called miracle molecule has become one of the world’s fastest-growing treatment and product categories, with fans from Jennifer Aniston to Kim Kardashian and Hailey Bieber singing the praises of its various iterations.
Israeli facial esthetician Keren Bartov, whose clinic in Notting Hill has become a place of pilgrimage for the skin-obsessed, says PDRN is now her most sought-after treatment. “People are moving away from the overstuffed look,” agrees Dr. Jennifer Owens The Glow Clinic. “Instead, they are looking for treatments that regenerate and improve skin health – treatments that feel more natural and restorative. The idea of something derived from DNA fragments may seem particularly attractive in that context.”
Yes, PDRN comes from salmon sperm…
Derived from the DNA of salmon (and sometimes trout), PDRN is remarkably compatible with human skin. In its refined form, it is prized by many of the world’s most respected aesthetic and skincare professionals for its ability to stimulate cell repair, stimulate collagen and soothe inflammation, working deep within the skin at the cellular level to reset and rejuvenate the complexion from within.
As such, this so-called miracle molecule is healing and strengthening rather than transformative, and fits in perfectly with our evolving preference for treatments that improve skin health and longevity.
Keren Bartov
Part of the polynucleotide family
PDRN belongs to a broader family of biocompatible skin regenerative molecules called polynucleotides: long chains of DNA fragments that act as cellular messengers and encourage the skin to behave as if it were younger.
By doing this, polynucleotides can encourage fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin, improve hydration and repair microdamage, making them the perfect solution for tired or stressed skin.
PDRN is a specific, highly refined type of polynucleotide known for its wound healing and anti-inflammatory properties. “What makes PDRN so special is its regenerative approach and flexibility,” says Dr. Owens. “It can even be used on sensitive areas like under the eyes, where injectable hyaluronic acid injections can be tricky. And it works with your own biology rather than simply filling or replacing volume.”
From medications to maintenance
Before finding its way into cosmetic dermatology and product formulation, PDRN has had a relatively long history of medical use, “particularly in Italy and South Korea, where it is used to treat severe skin injuries, burns and inflammatory conditions,” Bartov explains. “Over time, its cosmetic potential became apparent, especially in reviving tired, irritated or uneven skin. Its subsequent rise in popularity comes down to safety, its compatibility with most skin types and its ability to deliver visible results quickly,” she adds.
Fleur Kaan courtesy of Unsplash
In clinics, PDRN is typically administered via injectable ‘skin boosters’, which are applied topically after micro-needling or resurfacing and rejuvenation treatments such as Tixel.
The results are subtle, but can be excitingly transformative – think stronger barrier function, refined texture and pores, and that long-awaited radiant glow. “Most patients see results within two to three weeks,” says Bartov, “often with smoother, plumper and more radiant skin, although in some cases, especially after inpatient treatment, results are visible after just one session.”
As with any injectable treatment, safety comes down to the doctor’s expertise, but side effects are rare thanks to the molecule’s close compatibility with human DNA. Dr. Owens is also quick to emphasize that not all PDRN products are created equal. “Some may not have undergone the same level of testing or quality control, which can lead to wasted time and money if results do not meet expectations.”
As with any treatment, a thorough consultation will help you find out if this is a suitable treatment for your skin and concerns. “It is important not to view PDRN as a silver bullet,” says Dr. Owens. “It’s a fantastic tool, but works best as part of a wider, balanced plan that can also include treatments such as muscle relaxing injections, fillers or laser, depending on your goals.
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