Debbie Thomas’s Skincare Rules: The Expert’s Guide to Calm, Healthy Skin

“I got into beauty and holistic treatments in a simple way: to help people feel better about themselves. I developed acne in my 20s and realized how deeply skin affects how we feel. I was determined to understand what skin needs to thrive.

Good skin is healthy, strong skin – when it is healthy, almost all problems become easier to treat. I’m looking for brightness and freshness and a lack of redness, as this signals inflammation. When the barrier functions well and the skin is calm, it behaves, responds and looks better.

Lifestyle and environment have more influence on the skin than we would like to believe. When sleep, stress and nutrition are out of balance, the body can enter a more inflamed state, compromising the skin barrier and collagen support. The skin then starts to look and behave “older”: more sensitivity, dullness, pimples, fine lines and wrinkles. The healthier we are on the inside, the more it is visible on the outside.

There is increasing insight into the interaction between home care and clinic treatments. If you invest in clinical treatments but don’t support the skin properly every day, you won’t benefit from the best. It’s a big part of why I developed my skincare line Cellis (cellis.com). The formulas support the barrier, respect the microbiome, help calm visible inflammation and strengthen the skin’s natural defenses.

I worry about misinformation, especially on social media, where skincare advice is often given with confidence but without any real training or experience, forcing people into routines or treatments that are not good for them.

Overconsumption is another problem: too many treatments in the clinic, too close together or mixing too many products at home. The skin responds best to consistency, not ‘more is more’. It’s an organ, not an accessory.

When it comes to my own routine, I’m low-key, but obsessed with consistency. The skin is like a toddler: repeat the same instructions and it understands; change the rules and it gets confused. In the morning I cleanse, use an antioxidant serum and never skip SPF50. In the evening I cleanse twice and then use a retinoid – they are still the gold standard for age management.

Do you have a terrible spot before an event? If it is large, painful and subcutaneous: do not pick. Try packed ice to reduce swelling. Overnight patches can help and the ZIIP DOT device (£169.99, ziipbeauty.co.uk) is also useful. Don’t throw 10 active substances at it the night before. Your makeup will last better in an area that is not irritated or picked.

I’m a fan of LED masks because they are easy to use, but not all are created equal. I review the Omnilux Contour Face (£348, omniluxled.com).

When skin feels reactive, soothe it and simplify your routine. Since I have access to professional tools, I will do a session of Byonik “cold” low-level laser (dthomas.com) to return the skin to a calmer baseline. At home, get back to your routine and focus on barrier support for a few days, adding a richer moisturizer with essential fatty acids.

SPF is the most underrated step in a skincare routine. Prevention is always easier than treatment, and sun damage can manifest itself in the form of redness, fine lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores and more. Don’t let gray skies fool you, UVA is still there, so never skip it.

If you can’t or don’t want to invest in high-end skin care, keep your routine simple with a gentle cleanser, a barrier-supporting moisturizer and a daily SPF, plus an antioxidant in the morning and a retinoid in the evening. Try Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser (£11.50, boots.com), BYOMA moisturizing gel-cream (£12.99, cultbeauty.co.uk) or Boots DermaCare ceramides moisturizer (£8, boots.com), The Ordinary ascorbyl glucoside solution 12% (£14.10, theordinary.com) and Skin Rocks Retinoid 1 (£ 65, skinrocks.com).”