Black cosmetic chemist creates new sunscreen that won’t leave a white cast on dark skin

A black cosmetic chemist has developed a new product that eliminates a major problem for dark-skinned sunscreen wearers.

Although mineral sunscreens are a popular option for those who want instant sun protection with safer ingredients, a large group of people have often moved away from the product. A signature ingredient of most mineral sunscreens, zinc oxide, often produces an unflattering white cast on people with darker skin tones, prompting many to simply stick with the chemical versions.

However, AJ Addae, who studies chemical biology at UCLA, has created a new solution to the long-standing problem. Because she herself has dark skin, this passion stems from a personal mission to make mineral sunscreen more inclusive.

“The best sunscreen is one that you wear, and that’s really all my motivation for it is,” she told ABC7.

To develop the formula, she joined forces with fellow UCLA scientist, Dr. Paul S. Weiss of the Jonsson Comprehensive Cancer Center, to find out why some sunscreens leave such a ghostly impression.

“We took apart conventional sunscreens that use zinc oxide and found that the white cast comes from the agglomeration of these round, slightly irregular particles of zinc oxide,” explains Weiss.

To combat this problem, Addae and Weiss decided to make the zinc oxide particles take on a different shape. The scientists decided to form tetrapods from the zinc oxide, which allowed the particles to stand apart while also forming an even layer on the skin. This new formulation also eliminated the white cast caused by clumping.

“It forms these networks, very nice, persistent networks of zinc oxide that spread very well, smoothly and evenly across the skin,” the black chemist said.

Not only did the reinvention work, but it still provided similar levels of UV protection found in pre-existing sunscreen products. Additionally, this development did not require any solvent used to dissolve the UV filters, making it better for the environment as well.

For her overarching achievement in the field of innovative entrepreneurship, Addae also won $100,000 from Pharrell Williams’ Black Ambition Prize for Sula Labs, as detailed by UCLA. The company, founded by Addae tests cosmetic products for brands at major retailers such as Sephora and Ulta.

As a pioneering cosmetic chemist and entrepreneur, Addae has dedicated her work and platform to increasing diversity in beauty and skin care. She hopes the money can continue her mission of making personal care accessible to everyone.

“While the prize money is incredible, the win is a symbol that our hard work to close inclusivity gaps in cosmetics and personal care through science is having significant impact and scale,” Addae said upon winning the award in November.

With her non-white sunscreen coming to market soon, she has given Black people of all skin tones a new opportunity to feel included in the latest products.

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