On Mount Etna on Sicily, the quality of white wines rises

For a long time known for epic red wines made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio -Truven, the more than 400 winemakers have been clustered on the slopes of Mount Etna in East -Sicily in East -Sicily -the largest volcano in Carrocante Europe now, but also with white wines (mainly with and with a white wines and with and with and with it with a white wines (mainly with and with and more, and with and with and with more and more wines and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and and well -lyyer Bianca). The flavors can be phenomenal.

Mount Etna is a brightly desired location for winemakers. According to figures from the Etna Doc Wine ConsortiumBetween 2014 and 2024 the number of Mount Etna wine producers jumped from 242 to 474; The area of ​​vineyards grew by 73% and the Volume of Wine produced grew by 117%.

Other figures from the consortium indicate that between 2019 and 2024 the volume of red wine produced (Rosso and Rosso Riserva) increased by 3%, while the volume of white wine (Bianco and Bianco Superiore) increased by 37%. The total split during those six years changed from 66% red/34% white to 56% red/44% white.

I spoke with producers to learn more.

Alberto Graci makes wine on the north side of Mount Etna – about an hour’s drive in the interior from Taormina – where rainfall can be considerably higher than on the south side of the volcano.

“Etna was known for red. I think whites now become more important. They can have sweetness with a salty expression, have structure without softness and acidity but are not sour wines.”

Michele Faro, owner of Pietradolce on the northern slopes of Etna, shared his thoughts.

“Etna started with few whites, and now white and red are about 50/50. I think it will stay with this balance.”

Angelo Silvestro, Hospitality Managing for Pietradolce agreed.

“Nerello Mascalese has reached a Golden Age. Over the past seven years there have been a time for Carricante – a very interesting variety: complex with minerality and not so many tropicals.”

Antonio Ciccarelli, who works as a communication manager for various estates owned by Piccini 1882, including Torre Mora on the northeastern slopes of Mount Etna, shared insights.

“Red wines were 65 %here and white wines 35 %. Now they are side by side. We hope that Americans recognize these whites as much as Pinot Grigio and Soave Wines from other parts of Italy.”

Giacomo Foti Randazzer, owner and winemaker at a winery of the same name on the South Hellopes of Etna, gave his insight into an advantage of whites.

“Carricante is famous for the acidity – which can give the lifespan to wine. The data from Etna Wine Consortium says that there is an inversion of production from red to white. In the past, about 70% of the wine and 30% were white. Now they are around 55% for red and 45% for white. In the last five years, white grapes started more than red.”

Wines made from caricante grapes share some similarities made from Assyrtiko -grapes on the Greek island of Santorini -with tones of honey, lime and salt, although, in the field of Etna, Spearmint in younger wines. Similar to white wines made from the Timorasso grape in the Piedmont region in Italy, the flavors can develop an almost caramelized wealth after just two to four years.

However, the expression of white wines can change dramatically because of the difference in microclimates about the range of this vast, beautiful, often smoking volcano.

Francesco Cambria, president of the Etna Doc Wine Consortium and co-owner of Cottanera Wines, explained.

“We are working on producing high quality wines born from Etna, with characteristics of Etna volcano, but the microclimates really differ from left to right, from district Unpleasant Contrada. “ [A contrada is a geographically defined micro-zone with unique terroir characteristics.]

Enrico Travaglianti – Winemaker on an estate with the same surname, located on the southwestern slopes of Etna, shared thoughts about white wines.

“The pedo-climatic conditions make Etna Witte Wijnen perfect to be a great wine, even after 20 years because of the climate, the rain, the ground and good winemakers. Carricante is the king of white grapes on Etna. Catarratto can give the wine other flavors and sensations that Carricante does not have.”

Some of those “other sensations” are flower aromas.

Winemaker Margherita Platania from Tente Feudo Cavaliere – also on the southwestern slopes of Etna – it is supplied that red wine continues to dominate production associated with the volcano.

“White wine is now more popular. But I think it’s just fashionable.”

[Recent tasting notes on over a hundred wines from Mount Etna can be found here at my Vino Voices site.]