News – Shoemakers wanted for PhD research – Shoegazing.com

British shoemaker Deborah Carré is carrying out one of the largest academic research projects into custom shoemaking in years. Her PhD examines the transmission of shoemaking skills since the 1850s, with historical and modern shoemaking competitions – mainly the World Shoemaking Championships – playing a crucial role. She is now looking for cobblers to participate in her research by completing a survey and contributing further. Collectors of vintage handmade shoes are also invited to participate.

I won’t write much here myself, but instead let Deborah Carré introduce herself, her research and what kind of input she is looking for. If you are a shoemaker or a collector of vintage shoes, I strongly encourage you to read the text below and take the short time necessary to participate in this important research. The more participants, the better. And since not much research has been done on this topic, the topic needs all the support it can get. Please also help spread the message so that it reaches as many people as possible.

I am extremely grateful to Jesper for introducing me here. My name is Deborah Carré. I am a London-based bespoke shoemaker and I am getting in touch to ask for your assistance in my research into the skills and traditions of the hand-sewn (bespoke) shoemaking of the West End, in order to preserve them for future generations.

I have been working as a bespoke shoemaker here in London for over 25 years, as half of Carréducker, alongside James Ducker. Just as we had the privilege of training with Paul Wilson many, many years ago, we continue to pass on the skills and techniques at our handmade shoemaking workshop. We offer newcomers an essential introduction to the profession and a flying start in the profession; some of our students have even been featured on Jesper’s podcast!

Teaching led me to this exciting new venture as a researcher. Communities around the world are waking up to the importance of preserving not only historical sites, but also living heritage – things that cannot be touched, such as folklore, music and traditional crafts. I explore the West End’s handmade shoemaking industry as a vibrant example of living heritage: its rich history, detailed techniques and the way generations of shoemakers have transferred their knowledge to and from London across borders, seas and oceans. (The term West End shoemaking has historically distinguished the artisan shoemakers in and around the West End of London, who work with fine materials and use highly skilled techniques).

I never thought I would dive into research, but my love for this field and my belief in the power of education and opportunity for all led me here.

Like many, I have watched the shoemaking trade in Britain shrink, suppliers disappear and masters retire. Hand-sewn shoemaking remains on the Heritage Crafts endangered red list here in Britain. But in countries where heritage and education enjoy more support – through apprenticeships, government funding and formal programs – the tradition is maintained. My research will compare these systems to find out what really helps sustain a craft like ours.

While much of my work delves into historical archives, I will use the World Shoemaking Championships as a contemporary reference, where makers from around the world reflect the legacy of exhibition shoes of the past.

My mission? Creating a comprehensive historical and practical resource: a guide to maker skills, techniques, and stories, for makers; keeping the tradition alive, evolving and making it attractive to the next generation.

Will you help?

Calling all cobblers!

If you are a shoemaker, please fill in this quick survey. Would you like to share your experience, who you trained with and how you learned? I would like to interview you – face-to-face or via Zoom, wherever you are in the world.

Next year I will hopefully be traveling to Europe, South Korea and Japan, so please get in touch if you are training or being trained as an apprentice, or if you have competed in the World Championships and I would love to interview you and film your work.

Calling all collectors and connoisseurs

If you collect historic shoes – especially men’s shoes from the late 19th to mid-20th centuries – I would be thrilled to see your collection and hear your stories.

Please email me at deborahccarre@googlemail.com if you would like to help with my research or if you have any questions.

Thank you, Jesper, for this introduction, and sincere thanks to everyone who has already invited me into their workshops, archives and homes. I look forward to meeting many more of you in the coming months.

/Debora