Writer: Helena Bergström
Did you know that the Scanian holiday Mårten Gås is actually about Saint Martin? And that this holiday is celebrated in several places in Europe? In some countries a “goose dinner” is served and in others it is light processions or croissants…
Saint Martin of Tours – a French saint
Saint Martin (or Martin of Tours) lived in the fourth century and was a Roman soldier who later became Bishop of Tours in present-day France. Legend tells of an occasion when Private Martin generously shared his cloak with a frozen beggar. These and other noble acts made Martin seen as a symbol of humanity and mercy, and the people were eager to appoint him bishop.
How does the goose come into the picture?
But what does the goose have to do with this? It may not be obvious, but legend has it that Martin did not want to become a bishop simply because his humility made him feel unworthy of the role. To escape, he came up with the idea of hiding in a goose coop. However, the geese betray him by cackling loudly, and in memory of this they have involuntarily been given a leading role in the festivities…
This is how Mårten Gås is celebrated in Skåne
Growing up in Scania myself, I remember the holiday being celebrated in different ways, even though we didn’t eat a “goose dinner” in my family. However, I remember we did “goose crafts” at school.
In the past, the festival was a culinary ritual that marked the end of the harvest season and the beginning of Lent before Christmas. Today it seems that the holiday has received a slight boost again, not least in certain gastronomic circles. A classic goose dinner is served on Mardi Gras night, November 10, or any day of the week, and includes:
- Starter: Black soup – a soup made with goose blood, stock, wine, brandy, dried fruit and herbs.
- Main course: Roast goose – filled with apples and plums, served with brown sauce, red cabbage and potatoes.
- Dessert: Scanian apple pie – a powerful apple pie made with rye bread, apples, butter and sugar.
This is how Saint Martin is celebrated throughout Europe
Saint Martin is not only celebrated in Scania, but in many places in Central Europe. In Sweden, as usual, we often celebrate it on the ‘evening’ (compare with Easter Eve, Midsummer Eve, Christmas Eve!), in this case on November 10, while further on in Europe people like to celebrate it on the ‘day’ itself, namely November 11. Here are some examples of how the celebration goes:
Belgium – lantern parades, singing and sandwiches
In some regions of Belgium, in the north of the country, children go to lantern parades, sing Christmas carols and receive treats, and it is also customary to light a large fire. At these places they also bake a sandwich, with raisins and currants, in the shape of an old man with a pipe.
The Netherlands – lantern parades, singing and sweets
In the Netherlands there is a playful atmosphere, with children going door to door with lanterns and singing songs in exchange for candy, a bit like a warm and friendly version of Halloween. In the north the party is extra big.
Germany – lanterns, song and goose
Germans like to celebrate Saint Martin, especially in the Rhineland and the western part of Germany. The children will participate in lantern parades on the evening of November 11, carrying homemade paper lanterns and singing St. Martin’s Carols. A “Saint Martin” on horseback may join the procession, dressed in a red cloak and Roman helmet. Then a campfire is lit and in the evening you can eat “Martin’s goose” – a meal of roast goose, red cabbage, potatoes and chestnuts.
Poland – St. Martin’s croissants
In Poland, Saint Martin is celebrated with delicacies, especially in the beautiful city of Poznan. Certified bakers bake the pastries here St. Martin’s croissants – St. Martin’s Croissants – mainly around November 11, but nowadays also all year round, as this has become a signature activity for the city of Poznan. When we visited Poznan a few years ago, we had the opportunity to try baking Saint Martin’s croissants ourselves during a workshop. Cool!
These delicious pastries consist of puff pastry that is filled with, among other things, poppy seeds, after which it is glazed with a sugary glaze. The croissants are shaped like a crescent moon, so that they resemble a horseshoe that the saint’s horse once dropped…
Hungary – party, wine and goose
In Hungary the day is called “Szent Márton napja” and is an important holiday. The celebration combines food, wine and folk culture and it is traditional to eat goose, foie gras, goose soup and young Martin wines from the year’s harvest.
Austria – family party with goose and sandwich
Saint Martin is an important saint figure in Austria and the celebration is especially strong in Burgenland, Styria and Lower Austria. The children hold lantern parades, like in Germany, and Martin’s songs are also sung. You also eat Martinigansl, i.e. goose with red cabbage and dumplings, and Martinskipferl, a crescent-shaped sweet roll.
Mårten Gås or Sint Maarten – celebration with candles, community and food
Common to all celebrations, whether you are in Scania, Germany or Poland, is the feeling that St. Martin’s Day is about warmth in the dark – about celebrating the good things in life before winter arrives.
So the next time you sit at a Scanian goose table in Poland or bite into a Polish St. Martin’s croissant, consider how the same story – about a man, a cloak and a goose – continues to fly through Europe…
What are your experiences with Mårten Gås or Sankt Martin?
What are your experiences with Mårten Gås or Sankt Martin? Please tell me!
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