How to repair the rattle on a separate towbar – Jalopnik

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Driving with a trailer in tow can be stressful under the best conditions. For example, worry about how you can protect the transmission of your vehicle while dragging and whether it is safe to use cruise control while dragging. And God forbid you have to make a backup with a trailer attached. The last thing you need is an annoying rattling sound that comes from the hitch connection.

That rattle is often caused by the drawing bar (aka the ball mount) – the removable elongated piece with the draw ball attached – loosely in the recipient of the towbar. The Hitch Receiver is the part that is attached to your car or truck, so you use the Happer to lock the drawing bar in place. Of course the drawing bar cannot fit too well, because it is meant to be removed when it is not used or exchanged for a drawing bar with another diameter hookball mounted for another trailer, such as going from 2-inch to 2 5/16-inch.

Due to the relaxed fit between these two components, both drivers and passengers can be irritated by a series of rattles, pony or crackles in the hut of the vehicle. And by the way, a loose towbar that rattles not only limited to ball attachments for drag trailers. It is also a pitfall of hitch -mounted accessories such as freight carriers and bicycle racks. Fortunately, the aftermarket has developed various smart solutions to prevent your towing hook from rattling. Depending on your do-it-yourself pork chops, there are also some proven homebrew fixes.

First, let’s look at some of the products that are mainly made to tackle a noisy towbar. A place to start is the migratory pen, which locks the ball mount in the recipient. Instead of buying an anti-rattle hook pen instead of a standard lifter pen. Options vary, but it is a popular example Silent Lifts Pin By Let’s Go Aero, where a spring -loaded block of metal is placed in the hose of the ball spread. The silent hapms is thread and is involved in the metal block in the bullet mount to tighten the entire mounting on one side of the recipient. The costs for the application, good to class IV, are around $ 43 on Amazon.

Next is a towbar clamp, best described as a U-bolt that catches the lift ball mount and goes through a metal plate at the bottom. By tightening the nuts on the U-bolts, the bullet mount is effectively recorded in the lower part of the recipient confirmation. There are many variations of this type of towbar clamp, but one of the most purchased models on Amazon is the Rhino USA -TrekhaakRetailing for around $ 22 in the common 2-inch size. In exchange for the lower price, the HAPERKLEM is a little more involved to install and remove than an anti-rattle pins.

Perhaps you are the type that likes to buy instead of buying produced items, or are you in the middle of nowhere and you have to calm your noisy towbar in a hurry, with the help of what is available. A method to fill the openings between the bullet mount and the receiving tube is to insert a kind of improvised Shim. Ready-made fills are also available, but you can build your own bits foam, rubber, metal or even wooden skills for installing household door frames. Of course these solutions with low or no-budget are not permanent and can ultimately fall or self-destroy.

Finally, drivers can wrap the bullet mount with massive amounts of electric tape, although the use of spicy electric tape with chili-equipped is purely optional. This will increase the outer diameter of the hose for a safer fit in the hitch receiver. Moreover, the flexible tape offers some pillow or filling to silence the metal-on-metal rattels or classes.

In addition to helping drivers and passengers who keep their common sense on a long road trip, calming rattling also offers a safety skill. Over time, an excessively loose lift ball attachment can extend the gaps for the happer pins, which can lead to even more noisy movement and ultimately may require to completely replace the vehicle trailer.