From hype to discipline: the new world of influencer marketing | Case study

The rules of influencer marketing have changed.

Five years ago, the formula was simple: identify a creator with hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of followers in your category – beauty, fashion, etc. – give them a detailed creative brief with must-have talking points and after a few rounds of back and forth, approve the post, drop the check and watch the likes roll in.

As we look to 2026, both brands and creators have different strategies and higher expectations. Influencer marketing is still an effective way to get a brand in front of a large number of new customers, but it is increasingly seen as a tool to drive both conversion and awareness – if not more.

“Reach plus conversion is the holy grail, and there are plenty of creators who can do both,” says Roy Peters, senior vice president of creator management at influencer management company The Sociable Society.

Influencer marketing is more important today than ever before. It’s a byproduct of brands following their eyes: Nearly two-thirds of the time consumers spend with media today is online – and often that’s watching content from creators. In 2025, advertising giant WPP predicted that advertising revenue from social media – including creators – would reach $413 billion this year, eclipsing traditional media.

But it’s also because the industry has become more advanced. Brands and creators alike are finding innovative ways to collaborate with each other beyond #advertising posts. Collaborations have also been propelled by the development of new technologies and platforms, such as affiliate-focused influencer company ShopMy or Agentio, an AI-powered platform that connects brands with creators for campaigns. Plus, the sheer number of creators working today across a growing number of channels (TikTok, Instagram, Substack, podcasts, and more) means there’s a creator partner for just about every purpose.

Companies today need to be more strategic when developing their influencer marketing strategies. In practice, this means brands are investing in gift giving and taking a more creative approach to affiliate marketing. They’re also finding new ways to tap into the power of an influencer’s followers, whether it’s through a product collaboration or hiring them for more than just end-stage marketing, like involving them in product development or creating campaigns.

Creators, meanwhile, are becoming more comfortable pushing back on their brand partners. They have always known that an Instagram page full of commercial-like advertisements will not reach their followers. They want to flex their creative muscles, instead of just collecting a paycheck. And many have realized that no brand deal is worth sacrificing the trust of their community.

In this case study The fashion world provides an overview of what brands need to know about the new rules of influencer marketing, from the platforms producing the next generation of social media stars to the changing interests of affiliate marketing. It includes perspectives from several brands, including makeup label Tarte, whose extensive influencer forays are infamous; Gen Z-favorite retailer Free People; British bag brand DeMellier; clothing label Aligne; jewelry salesman Dorsey; and hair care label Crown Affair.

Any brand looking to connect with shoppers today needs to understand the role influencers should play in their strategy.